“The steaks are serious, including a gorgeous picanha with a half-inch cap of snowy white fat that runs down into the flesh as it’s broiled. Too bad the sides, apart from a toss of spring-bright peas and yielding carrots, were mostly forgettable — those button mushrooms would never pass muster at Mr. Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern — and on one of my visits, the black bass en papillote, the lightest of the entrees, was glumly fishy.”
H3